Last thoughts from Udaipur

28 Mar

Seven am. The rhythmic thumping of dhobi women on the ghat below has been with me since before dawn. As Rajasthani summer gathers pace, nights as hot as day have me sleeping nude without covers on the bed; fan on … Read More »

Motorbiking with Guddu

25 Mar

Yesterday evening. I deem it a fine joint, given that it’s the first I’ve rolled in a quarter century, but Guddu’s tone has a dismissive note I don’t entirely care for at so milestone a moment. On what criterion does it … Read More »

A day in the countryside

22 Mar

It’s tricky, negotiating a way down this baked and rutted track to a lake spied from the road. I have to calibrate. Too little power and I come a cropper as front wheel fails to steer round or over the ruts, pitching the machine sideways. … Read More »

Lake Pichola

16 Mar

[ezcol_1half]Early yesterday morning a cormorant on Pichola’s north-east corner, in Udaipur’s Old City where it narrows to a canal connecting the lake to Fateh Sagar, caught a pipefish a foot long. I didn’t see the duo surface, the one to … Read More »

Faces of Udaipur

16 Mar

Disinclined to write, I wandered the ghats and streets at the northern end of Lake Pichola. Later I’ll dedicate a post to the lake, so have focused here on faces, mostly human.   [ezcol_1half]I spotted him as he was about to ascend … Read More »

Bhang bhang, I hit the ground ..

13 Mar

[ezcol_1half]Holi kicked off last night with street dancing and bonfires on every corner of Udaipur in Southern Rajasthan, and in cities, towns and villages the length and breadth of India. Just the men, that is. The only women dancers were western. … Read More »