Rother Valley in bloom

10 May

1952-1970: amid stiff competition the Rother of my boyhood and youth was the filthiest river in South Yorkshire. While the Don was home, below its oil slicks and sludge yellows, to a hardy stickleback or two, the Rother was officially … Read More »

Reflections on Hoi An

1 Apr

Like Dalat and for similar reasons Hoi An defies easy summary. It has its brash, kitsch and rip-off aspects but also a warmth never far from the surface, together with a kaleidoscopic abundance of contrasting ambience, culture and rhythm. I … Read More »

Afternoon in Danang

27 Mar

To the beautiful people of Danang after an afternoon on its streets, in a fish market and at a wonderful cafe where the young woman running things made me coffees between delivering a master class in checquers. [wds id=”28″]

Can Kim Island

23 Mar

A kilometre from bustling and hustling Hoi An is Can Kim Island, as different as Cambridgeshire fens from Cambridge Town. Two years ago you had to go by boat but could bring a bike to tootle on sleepy lane, dirt track and … Read More »

Coffee

22 Mar

Poker face made of stone, among friends but all alone. Why do you hide? Say something, say something; anything. Your silence is deafening – give me a sign. James: Say Something So we’re drinking and we’re dancing and the band is really happening and … Read More »

More glimpses of Hoi An

21 Mar

Across the white tiles of the loo it darts for refuge. I could take umbrage – haven’t pissed on a lizard in years – but remind myself its behaviour is procedurally sound in a land that prides itself on eating … Read More »